Will this amp work with the dual 12's that have a 4ohm impedance? If my subs are rated as 2 ohm, can I safely connect them in series to make them 1 ohm? My question is can the two subs listed be run at 2-ohm? When using one channel I still get plenty of heat but will run all day. This is the same Ray from a previous question I forgot 1 digit in my email! That way if you need more power you can get it by turning the nob and not rewiring the subs. I'm not trying to buy cheap junk, but I'd like to stay relatively inexpensive. A 2 foot section of the 12 gauge speaker wire was soldered to the back side of the box terminals to provide a secure connection. The subs are sitting coil up in my trunk in a custom moulding.
I've looked all over the internet for diagrams and I am totally stumped. The amplifier will have an output impedance of around 0. It is defined as the resistance between two points of a conductor when a constant potential difference of 1 volt, applied to these points, produces in the conductor a current of 1 ampere, the conductor not being the seat of any electromotive force. The subs have a 4ohm impedance and a 150watt rms per sub, with a peak power of 300 watts each. Your mono, 1-channel amp has 2 sets of speaker output terminals, wired together inside the amp, for convenience, and if you hook a speaker to each terminal it would result in the two speakers being wired in parallel, cutting the total impedance in half. The amps you mention can both handle them wired as a 2-ohm load, but would probably overheat and shut down with the ½-ohm load.
I am dumbing this down a bit and removing some physics lingo. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. For immediate help, you can contact them via phone or chat - just click on the phone icon at the very top of this page. I am new to all of this sound stuff and I am wondering what amp to get to play them at their full potential. I did get an extra pair of subs from kicker though.
Unfortunately, we're only licensed to sell gear in the United States and Canada. That would make them 2ohm correct? The owners manual for the Kenwood says in bridged I have 500 rms 4ohm, while the sub is 500 rms 4 ohms. I can tell you that you should never connect subs of different impedances together to the same amplifier - the lower impedance subs will get more power than the higher impedance subs, resulting in unbalanced sound levels and potentially blown subs. The number after the D is the impedance of the voice coils. I can explain more if you are interested. The sub and amp you need depends on what you want to hear.
Are most 4 ohm amps 2 ohm stable? It sounds awesome, just hot! So, using one of those math formulas, an amplifier that provides 100 watts of power through a 4-ohm speaker, will produce 200 watts through a 2-ohm speaker, because it's easier to push that reduced load. Or do I need to add a new amp to help them out? For more wiring specifics, check out our. At this stage, it really depends on the specifications of the speaker, whether or not it will be able to take the load, s it is important to do the right matching of resistance or impedance in order to keep the equipment safe. In this configuration, the two subwoofers are wired together in parallel. For instance, the same power source creates 100 watts of power through a 4-ohm speaker, while 200 watts pass through a 2-ohm speaker. I was planning on running them at 2 ohms wired as shown in your earlier reply to me. In both setups, each sub's voice coils are wired together in series, while the two subs themselves are wired together in parallel.
Don't run your amp at that load. Working in a music store in Austin, Texas, I spent a few years manufacturing, installing, repairing, and operating sound systems. With a difference of 2. There is no amplifier with an output impedance of 2 ohm. How can I wire these so that I get Max performance with out over heating the amp. Think of the or music as the water flowing through the pipe.
I've also read online people testing with a power meter to confirm around 50 watts to each door sub. Sorry if I sound confused, the true is that I really am, as Im just entering in the world of car audio. You need to provide more information in order for me to give you a meaningful answer. You can always upgrade the amp later if it isn't. The higher the wattage and associated ohm count, the more energy moves between the amp and speaker. Keep up the good work. With said amp, I'd get the most power out of it.
Is it a subwoofer or full range? Their toll-free number is on your invoice. For example, at 41 hertz the lowest note on a standard bass guitar , the impedance of a speaker might be 10 ohms. Good thing about it too is you don't need to change anything on the amp. Do you happen to know why? It will become clearer in a minute. Type in your own numbers in the form to convert the units! For your car, I'd just be curious to know if your battery can hack it. And yes, the amp's instructions mean that when the amplifier gets bridged to one-channel mode, it can safely drive loads from 4- to 8-ohms. The speaker itself in a car serves to amplify sound.